Mothballing your motorbike

Storing your bike over winter

As the nights draw in and the temperature drops experts at Haynes are offering practical advice for riders preparing to put their bike away for the winter.

Preparation is key, particularly if bikes are to be stored for long periods of time in cold, damp atmospheres such as garages and sheds.

Penny Cox, Motorcycle Editorial Manager for Haynes Publishing, renowned for motorcycle manuals and books, outlines her top tips for protecting your bike.

Penny Cox says:

"For many a motorcyclist now is time to hang up the helmet and seek the refuge of four wheels until the spring. It’s important to prepare your bike for storage so you’re not in for a nasty surprise when the warmer, dryer conditions return and you’re raring to get back on the road."

Haynes top tips for preparing your bike for storage:

Battery

• Remove it from the bike - in extreme cases of cold the battery may freeze and crack its case.
• Check the electrolyte level and top up if necessary (conventional refillable batteries). Clean the terminals.
• Store the battery off the motorcycle and away from any sources of fire.
• Position a wooden block under the battery if it is to sit on the ground.
• Give the battery a charge for a few hours every month or invest in a trickle charger which enables a regular constant charge to be applied.

Engine

• Remove the spark plug(s) and lubricate the cylinder bores with approximately a teaspoon of motor oil using a spout-type oil can.
• Reinstall the spark plug(s). Crank the engine over a couple of times to coat the piston rings and bores with oil.
• If your bike has carburettors, drain them of fuel otherwise there is a risk of jets becoming blocked by gum deposits from the fuel.
• Consider adding a fuel stabiliser to the fuel in the tank to prevent internal corrosion occurring. If the tank is drained completely, beware that corrosion of its internal surfaces may occur if left unprotected for a long period.
• The tank can be treated with a rust preventative especially for this purpose. Alternatively, remove the tank from the motorcycle and pour half a litre of motor oil into it, install the filler cap and shake the tank to coat its internals with oil before draining off the excess. The same effect can also be achieved by spraying WD40 or a similar water-dispersant around the inside of the tank via its flexible nozzle.
• On bikes with liquid-cooling systems, make sure the cooling system contains the correct mix of antifreeze. Antifreeze also contains important corrosion inhibitors.

• The air intakes and exhaust can be sealed off by covering or plugging the openings. In the case of the exhaust silencers make sure that you do not seal in any condensation; run the engine until it is hot, then switch off and allow to cool. Tape a piece of thick plastic over the silencer end(s). Note that some advocate pouring a tablespoon of motor oil into the silencer(s) before sealing them off.

Tyres

• Place the bike on its centrestand. Where only a sidestand is fitted, use an auxiliary stand to support the motorcycle in an upright position.
• Position a piece of board or blocks of wood under the tyres to keep them off the ground and to provide insulation from damp.
• Deflate each tyre by 5 to 10 psi, no more or the beads may unseat from the rim, making subsequent inflation difficult on tubeless tyres.

Rust Prevention - body and components

• Lubricate all lever, pedal, stand and footrest pivot points. If grease nipples are fitted to the rear suspension components, apply lubricant to the pivots.
• Lubricate all control cables.
• Apply a wax protectant to all painted and plastic components. Wipe off any excess, but don’t polish to a shine. Where fitted, clean the screen with soap and water.
• Coat metal parts with ACF-50 or Vaseline (petroleum jelly). When applying Vaseline to the fork tubes, do not compress the forks otherwise the seals will rot from contact with the Vaseline.
• Apply a vinyl cleaner to the seat.

Storage Conditions

• Aim to store the bike in a shed or garage which does not leak and is free from damp.

• Drape an old blanket or bedspread over the bike to protect it from dust and direct contact with sunlight (which will fade paint). This also hides the bike from prying eyes. Beware of tight-fitting plastic covers which may allow condensation to form and settle on the bike.
• If you have to store the bike outside use an insulated, breathable cover that will cover the discs.  If you have one, fit a top box to create an air space over the bike; this promotes air circulation and reduces condensation. Discourage neighbourhood cats napping on the seat with strips of plastic security spikes.

Haynes

Drive safely this winter with Haynes

Climate change may well be causing polar ice caps to melt and glaciers to shrink but UK winters still bring dark nights, fog, rain, snow - and increased danger.

In fact about 50% of all reported night-time road traffic accidents occur in wet conditions; however in the UK it is wet on average only one night in ten. Or, to put it another way, after dark a motorist is nine times more likely to be involved in an accident if it's wet. Add in hail, sleet and snow and these are just the conditions which are likely to bring the most car breakdowns. The AA expects to attend to more than 10,000 breakdowns a day in January!

Unless you intend to hibernate, you should prepare your car and yourself for bad weather. There are some simple DIY checks to ensure your vehicle is a safe as possible this winter. These include some of the many DIY tasks covered by Haynes Manuals that almost any car owner can easily do.

1. Check the operation of all exterior lights and keep them clean. Replacing failed bulbs or fuses is usually straightforward.
2. Clean the windscreen and windows, inside and out, regularly. Use a cleaner intended for car glass - household window cleaners can leave a smeary film.
3. Check the condition of wiper blades (which are simple to replace) and stop them freezing to the screen by propping them up on slices cut from a cork when you park for the night. Keep the washer reservoir topped up and use an additive with antifreeze properties (not engine antifreeze).
4. Each week and before long journeys, check the tyre pressures (including the spare wheel). Check also the tread depth - 1.6mm is the legal minimum but for good grip on wet roads, it's better to replace tyres once the tread depth is 2.0mm.
5. If you expect to do a lot of driving on snow-covered roads, consider buying a spare set of wheels with tyres especially designed for these conditions. Some tyre retailers will store the summer tyres for you in winter, and vice versa.
6. Check the level in the coolant reservoir and top up as necessary with a water/antifreeze solution. The coolant (with antifreeze) should be changed every two or three years.
7. Make sure the antifreeze concentration in the cooling system is adequate - if there has been a leak and you've been topping up with plain water it may not be. A garage can test it for you, or you can buy a tester from a car accessory shop.
8. Winter grade diesel can cope with temperatures down to -15º C. If lower temperatures are expected, use an anti-waxing additive in the fuel tank (or stay at home!)
9. Ensure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. You may get a free battery and charging system check at a car accessory shop or fast-fit specialist. Don't wait for your battery to fail - replace it in good time.
10. Carry an emergency kit - spare fuses and bulbs, jump leads, a torch, water dispersant spray and de-icer.
11. If your car has air conditioning, run it for 10 minutes or so once a month to stop the seals drying out. And use it to demist the windscreen even if you don't need the cooling effect.
12. When parking overnight in freezing conditions, leave your car in gear with the handbrake off if it is safe to do so. This will prevent the handbrake freezing in the 'on' position.
13. In the morning you can use warm (not boiling!) water for defrosting windows, but watch where it runs - it could form an ice slick when it freezes.
14. There's no point in keeping lock de-icer inside the car. Frozen door locks can sometimes be freed by blowing into them - but be careful not to get your lips stuck to the car!
15. Make things easier for the battery by not switching on headlights, heater blower or heated rear window until the engine is running. Similarly, switch off lights etc before stopping the engine. Switch off the heated rear window as soon as the screen is clear.
16. On slippery roads, drive slowly, smoothly and gently. Accelerate gradually, steer gently and brake smoothly. Arrange tuition on a skid-pan through your local driving school or the Institute of Advanced Motorists.

 

Haynes