BBQ Beer Can Chicken

Starting at the dawn of the barbecue, the BBQ Manual traces the origins of this popular worldwide cooking method right through to the present day. It's packed with 100 mouth-watering recipes; some traditional, many contemporary, including the infamous beer-can chicken - the time-honoured way to roast a whole chicken on a back garden barbecue. 

BBQ Beer Can Chicken

 

You need:

1.5–2kg (3½–4lb) whole chicken 1 tall can of lager or beer
4 tablespoons general meat rub (see recipe below)
50g (2oz) melted salted butter

 

To do:

1. Open the can of beer and pour out half the contents. Make two additional holes in the top of the beer can.
2. Remove the giblets and discard any fat inside the body and neck cavities.
3. Wash the chicken inside and out and pat dry with paper towels.
4. Sprinkle a tablespoon of the rub inside the body cavity and a tablespoon of the rub in the neck cavity.
5. Brush the outside of the chicken with half the melted butter.
6. Sprinkle the outside of the chicken with a tablespoon of the rub.
7. Stir another tablespoon of the rub into the remaining melted butter and set aside.
8. Holding the chicken upright, with the opening of the body cavity at the bottom, lower the chicken on to the beer can so it fits snugly inside. Tuck the wing tips behind the back.
9. Push the chicken down as far as it will go onto the can so it is stable.
10. Stand the chicken over a low heat, cover the grill and cook for 1½ hours until the chicken skin is crisp and dark brown.
11. Baste the chicken with the reserved butter-rub mixture every 30 minutes.
12. If the skin starts to brown too early cover the chicken loosely with foil.
13. Once cooked, place the chicken on a plate and let it rest.

After 10 minutes lift the chicken carefully off the beer can and carve.

General Meat Rub

for meat, poultry and fish

50g salt
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon powdered onion
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano

Mix all of the ingredients together and store in a glass jar and use as required.

Haynes

Pre-holiday car check-list

Breaking down is always a nuisance, but on holiday it can be a nightmare. Think about it: you miss the ferry and arrive late at your destination, tired and hungry. Your children get fed up and fractious, and paying for the repairs uses up all your holiday money. Worse still, you may miss your holiday altogether and see nothing more exciting than the back of a breakdown truck.

Let's face it, if you usually cover 100 miles a week cruising around town, then expecting your car to cope with a mammoth 2,000-mile drive that may well include a several hours crawling along a motorway could  just be asking for trouble.

At peak holiday periods, the UK's major breakdown organisations deal with more than 50,000 calls a day. Yet most faults are simple things - low engine oil or coolant levels, faulty jacks, snapped drivebelts and so on - all of which could easily be avoided by carrying out a vital pre-holiday check.

Don't let your car spoil your holiday: give it a clean bill of health with the assistance of Haynes - a name that is both instantly recognisable and trusted.

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for carrying out all kinds of jobs on the car, including simple tasks such as the 'pre-holiday check' below.

At least a week before taking your car on holiday, you should carry out a number of simple checks - some of which should be repeated just before you leave.

1. First, check that your car won't be due for an MOT test or a service whilst you are away. If necessary, get these done before you leave (or save some money and do the service yourself - it's easier than you think!).
2. Now, with the vehicle on level ground and a cold engine, check all the fluid levels - engine oil and coolant; brake, clutch and power steering reservoirs, plus the screen washer bottle (and automatic transmission fluid if appropriate).

3. Top up if necessary with the oil or fluid detailed in the car's handbook or the Haynes manual. If you check the fluid levels regularly and notice a significant drop in any of them, there may be a leak - get a garage to investigate.

4. Inspect the engine auxiliary drivebelt ('fanbelt') for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Get a new belt fitted (or do it yourself!) if necessary. Carrying a spare belt is a good idea.
5. Check the condition of the tyres carefully, including the one on the spare wheel. This could be a good opportunity to use the jack and ensure that it works properly (it may be missing altogether!).
6. Removing each of the wheels in turn will make it easier to inspect the tyres for cuts, abrasions, bulges or embedded nails or stones. Check the tread depth with an indicator gauge. The UK legal limit of 1.6mm is an absolute minimum and ideally you should replace any tyre with less than 3mm of tread before embarking on a lengthy holiday journey.
7. Check the wheels to see if they have been damaged by 'kerbing'. A particularly clean patch around the rim could indicate a missing wheel balancing weight. Using a tyre pressure gauge, check the inflation pressure of each tyre. A low reading could indicate a slow puncture, which you should get checked.

8. If you will be driving abroad at sustained high speeds, or loading the car to its maximum, the tyre pressures may need to be raised above normal - the Haynes manual gives details.
9. Now check the condition of the wiper blades. Clean them with a tissue dipped in screen wash concentrate. If they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if they smear a perfectly clean screen, renew them.
10. Make sure all the external lights are functioning - including rear fog lights. You can check brake lights unaided by seeing if they illuminate a wall or garage door. Try the horn too. Finally, clean the windows, inside and out, and wipe the lamp lenses and door mirrors.
11. If you are going on holiday abroad, the Haynes Driving Abroad' book details the essential equipment - such as a warning triangle, spare bulbs and First Aid kit - that you must carry for particular countries. Put these in an easily accessible place in your vehicle - together with your Haynes manual.
12. Just before you leave, check the tyre pressures and fluid levels again.

Your pre-holiday health check is complete. Bon voyage!

Haynes

Top 10 pre-season caravan checks

With daylight hours increasing at a seeming exponential rate and spring flowers brightening every hedgerow, it's time to hitch up your caravan. What a shame if, after only a few miles you get a flat, then you arrive on site and find the corner steadies won't wind down, the handbrake's seized, the cooker won't light and...

Better by far to spend time making a few pre-season checks and undertake some preventative maintenance. Here are our top ten tips:

1. Check the tyre pressures and tread depth and inspect the tyres for signs of cracking or premature failure. Re-torque the wheel nuts.
   
2. Make sure the handbrake operates freely by pulling and releasing the lever several times. Lubricate and adjust it as necessary.
   
3. Couple up a gas cylinder and make sure all the appliances are working.
4. Check the battery. It should have been removed, and charged occasionally, while your caravan was laid up for the winter. Give it a charge now if necessary.
   
5. At the start of the season, run a sterilising solution – such as used for babies' feeding bottles – through the water pipes.
6. Connect the 12N and 12S plugs to your tow car and check that the external and internal caravan lights and 12-volt appliances are working. Regularly clean the plugs and spray them with a moisture repellent.
   
7. Clean your caravan inside and out regularly and apply a coat of polish to help protect the exterior.
8. If you have an awning, check that there are no parts missing and that it is not damaged.
9. Lubricate window and door hinges and check that curtains and window blinds operate smoothly.
10. Finally, arrange for the gas system and appliances, the mains electricity supply and the refrigerator to be serviced annually by an expert – who should provide an inspection certificate.

    These are just ten tips for maintaining your caravan and there are many more in the The Caravan Manual by John Wickersham. It contains comprehensive information on storage, towing accessories, preparing for winter lay-up and many other topics of interest to caravanners and prospective caravan owners.

Haynes

Haynes Election Jargon Buster

Take a look inside Haynes How to Run the Country Manual

Haynes

Wheeler Dealers pick their top five restorations

With more than 100 episodes under their belt, the job of picking their favourite restorations was no easy task, but Mike Brewer and Edd China used their usual determination to hammer out their top five:

1.  Austin Mini

Mike says: "The Mini is definitely one of my all-time favourite classics, and is just such good fun to drive. If you want a small classic that'll be easy to work on, this is definitely the car for you; and there's a great owners' scene too, so you'll never be stuck for help or advice."

Edd says: "The Mini is the perfect car to learn about restoration skills. Not only is just about every part available but there's plenty of opportunity to undertake a few modifications and perhaps improve the performance, as it's a car that responds really well to tuning. The other great thing is that most parts are really cheap, so restoring one won't break the bank."

2.  Jaguar E-Type

Edd says: "The E-Type is an amazing car, and although I haven't always been sold on the looks I must admit that working on one changed my mind. They are complex, though, and the thought of carrying out major work can be daunting. But having had one in the workshop, I can really appreciate the engineering that went into them, and it's easy to see why so many people love them."

Mike says: "You're not going to be surprised to hear that I rate the E-Type as an absolute classic car icon. It's a gorgeous machine and I'm just as much a fan of them now as I was when I first saw one as a kid, so for me it was a car that we just had to have on Wheeler Dealers. If ever there was a car that needs expert advice before you take the plunge, this is it, and I was really happy to find the Series 3 car that we featured. My plan was always to keep it absolutely original and just concentrate on a proper restoration, as I knew that was where the profit lay."

3.  Peugeot 205 GTI

Mike says: "I've always been a huge fan of the hot hatchback, and I bought and sold plenty back in my trading days. And I reckon the 205 GTI was one of the very best, especially if you go for the 1.9-litre version like we did. That engine is just so punchy, and in such a light car it's a fantastic way to get down a B-road. Rising prices mean there is real investment potential here and you'll absolutely love it."

Edd says: "If I'm honest I'd probably say that I prefer the Golf GTI as a hot hatch, but it's easy to see why the Peugeot 205 GTI is so popular. The 1.9-litre engine is a great unit, and it's robust if you look after it properly. The 205 isn't too hard to work on either. As a technical exercise Peugeot got the GTI spot on, and – typical of French cars – there are some clever design touches."

4.  Mazda MX-5

Edd says: "The MX-5 was in a real state, and sorting the hood and interior took absolutely hours. All in all this one definitely needed some hard work putting in. Having said that, they are quite easy cars to work on, and things like the bolt-on front wings make some of the jobs easier. There are loads of aftermarket parts available, and as long as you stick to good quality parts they usually bolt straight on without the need for any fettling."

Mike says: "There's no doubt about it, the original MX-5 is an absolutely cracking little convertible, and if you're looking for some cheap fun, this is the car to be looking at. There are so many around that you won't have trouble finding a good one, and as long as it's not suffering from rot or been abused it should be cheap to run as well.

5.  Porsche 911 (993)

Mike says: "To be honest, I was really shocked at the condition of the 911 – I don't think I'd ever seen one as abused as this. But we really wanted to get another one on the show, and to find a 993 for this sort of money was amazing. Both of us loved it, and as soon as I took it for a test drive I knew this was the one. I think I said it on the show, but sometimes you just get a feel about a car that needs rescuing, and this Porsche was one of those."

Edd says: "Although the 993 was really poor cosmetically, the biggest job to do was fixing the Varioram system. Porsche's official method is to remove the engine, but that's a major task on one of these, which is why I wanted to see whether it could be done with the engine in place. Luckily this one worked out, although it still took a good few hours, and it needed a really methodical approach, with all the vacuum pipes involved."

To order you copy of the Wheeler Dealers Car Restoration Manual go to the book details page or to our Wheeler Dealers Car Restoration Manual feature page.

Haynes

Chicken Pie in a Pan

To celebrate British Pie Week, which takes place from the 2nd – 8th of March, we’ve dedicated this month’s blog to one of our favourite pie recipes from the Haynes Men’s Pie Manual, written by Andrew Webb. We’ve included the complete recipe and method below so you have everything you need, except for the ingredients, and it’s a very simple but very tasty pie that we’re sure you’ll enjoy. For more great pie recipes check out the Men’s Pie Manual RRP: £21.99 available from www.haynes.co.uk and other good book shops.

Chicken in a frying pan pie

This is the easiest pie in the world, as you make everything in one pan. Needless to say,
it has to be a pan that you can put in a hot oven. I also use ready-made pastry as that
saves time, mess and fuss too.

I made this pie in a small 7in (18cm) frying pan, though I’ve done it in larger; if you’re going to use a normal sized frying pan double the amount of filling, and I’d probably use a pie bird in the centre. You can also use the tiny frying pans used for frying individual eggs, the result being more of a ‘starter’-sized pie. You can also bulk out with left-over spuds.

Ingredients

 

For the filling
½ tablespoon of vegetable oil
1 small onion chopped
1 clove of garlic chopped
Large handful of any leftover cooked chicken bits (thigh, breast or leg)
½ teaspoon of dried tarragon
100ml of chicken stock
Tablespoon of crème fraîche
Handful of frozen peas
Leftover boiled/roast potato
For the pastry
1 packet of pre-made, pre-rolled pastry (shortcrust or puff)
1 egg

Method

 

1)    Place your pan on the hob and gently fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the garlic halfway through (you don’t want it to burn).
2)     Add the chicken, tarragon, stock and crème fraîche and simmer for about 15 minutes until well combined. Then add the potato.
3)     Add the frozen peas and cook for another 5 minutes so they’re cooked but still bright green.
4)     Turn off the heat and leave to cool.
5)     When cool, preheat your oven to 180°C. Take the pastry out of the packet and cut off two strips 1cm wide. Fashion these around the edge of your pan (this is to provide a bit more support to the pastry). Brush them with egg wash and unfurl your pastry over the pan. Crimp gently and trim off the excess. Brush with the rest of the egg wash and place in the preheated oven for 15–20 minutes until the pastry is cooked and golden.
6)    Allow to cool a little before eating straight out of the pan.

Learn more about the Haynes Men's Pie Manual

Haynes

Mothballing your motorbike

Storing your bike over winter

As the nights draw in and the temperature drops experts at Haynes are offering practical advice for riders preparing to put their bike away for the winter.

Preparation is key, particularly if bikes are to be stored for long periods of time in cold, damp atmospheres such as garages and sheds.

Penny Cox, Motorcycle Editorial Manager for Haynes Publishing, renowned for motorcycle manuals and books, outlines her top tips for protecting your bike.

Penny Cox says:

"For many a motorcyclist now is time to hang up the helmet and seek the refuge of four wheels until the spring. It’s important to prepare your bike for storage so you’re not in for a nasty surprise when the warmer, dryer conditions return and you’re raring to get back on the road."

Haynes top tips for preparing your bike for storage:

Battery

• Remove it from the bike - in extreme cases of cold the battery may freeze and crack its case.
• Check the electrolyte level and top up if necessary (conventional refillable batteries). Clean the terminals.
• Store the battery off the motorcycle and away from any sources of fire.
• Position a wooden block under the battery if it is to sit on the ground.
• Give the battery a charge for a few hours every month or invest in a trickle charger which enables a regular constant charge to be applied.

Engine

• Remove the spark plug(s) and lubricate the cylinder bores with approximately a teaspoon of motor oil using a spout-type oil can.
• Reinstall the spark plug(s). Crank the engine over a couple of times to coat the piston rings and bores with oil.
• If your bike has carburettors, drain them of fuel otherwise there is a risk of jets becoming blocked by gum deposits from the fuel.
• Consider adding a fuel stabiliser to the fuel in the tank to prevent internal corrosion occurring. If the tank is drained completely, beware that corrosion of its internal surfaces may occur if left unprotected for a long period.
• The tank can be treated with a rust preventative especially for this purpose. Alternatively, remove the tank from the motorcycle and pour half a litre of motor oil into it, install the filler cap and shake the tank to coat its internals with oil before draining off the excess. The same effect can also be achieved by spraying WD40 or a similar water-dispersant around the inside of the tank via its flexible nozzle.
• On bikes with liquid-cooling systems, make sure the cooling system contains the correct mix of antifreeze. Antifreeze also contains important corrosion inhibitors.

• The air intakes and exhaust can be sealed off by covering or plugging the openings. In the case of the exhaust silencers make sure that you do not seal in any condensation; run the engine until it is hot, then switch off and allow to cool. Tape a piece of thick plastic over the silencer end(s). Note that some advocate pouring a tablespoon of motor oil into the silencer(s) before sealing them off.

Tyres

• Place the bike on its centrestand. Where only a sidestand is fitted, use an auxiliary stand to support the motorcycle in an upright position.
• Position a piece of board or blocks of wood under the tyres to keep them off the ground and to provide insulation from damp.
• Deflate each tyre by 5 to 10 psi, no more or the beads may unseat from the rim, making subsequent inflation difficult on tubeless tyres.

Rust Prevention - body and components

• Lubricate all lever, pedal, stand and footrest pivot points. If grease nipples are fitted to the rear suspension components, apply lubricant to the pivots.
• Lubricate all control cables.
• Apply a wax protectant to all painted and plastic components. Wipe off any excess, but don’t polish to a shine. Where fitted, clean the screen with soap and water.
• Coat metal parts with ACF-50 or Vaseline (petroleum jelly). When applying Vaseline to the fork tubes, do not compress the forks otherwise the seals will rot from contact with the Vaseline.
• Apply a vinyl cleaner to the seat.

Storage Conditions

• Aim to store the bike in a shed or garage which does not leak and is free from damp.

• Drape an old blanket or bedspread over the bike to protect it from dust and direct contact with sunlight (which will fade paint). This also hides the bike from prying eyes. Beware of tight-fitting plastic covers which may allow condensation to form and settle on the bike.
• If you have to store the bike outside use an insulated, breathable cover that will cover the discs.  If you have one, fit a top box to create an air space over the bike; this promotes air circulation and reduces condensation. Discourage neighbourhood cats napping on the seat with strips of plastic security spikes.

Haynes

Drive safely this winter with Haynes

Climate change may well be causing polar ice caps to melt and glaciers to shrink but UK winters still bring dark nights, fog, rain, snow - and increased danger.

In fact about 50% of all reported night-time road traffic accidents occur in wet conditions; however in the UK it is wet on average only one night in ten. Or, to put it another way, after dark a motorist is nine times more likely to be involved in an accident if it's wet. Add in hail, sleet and snow and these are just the conditions which are likely to bring the most car breakdowns. The AA expects to attend to more than 10,000 breakdowns a day in January!

Unless you intend to hibernate, you should prepare your car and yourself for bad weather. There are some simple DIY checks to ensure your vehicle is a safe as possible this winter. These include some of the many DIY tasks covered by Haynes Manuals that almost any car owner can easily do.

1. Check the operation of all exterior lights and keep them clean. Replacing failed bulbs or fuses is usually straightforward.
2. Clean the windscreen and windows, inside and out, regularly. Use a cleaner intended for car glass - household window cleaners can leave a smeary film.
3. Check the condition of wiper blades (which are simple to replace) and stop them freezing to the screen by propping them up on slices cut from a cork when you park for the night. Keep the washer reservoir topped up and use an additive with antifreeze properties (not engine antifreeze).
4. Each week and before long journeys, check the tyre pressures (including the spare wheel). Check also the tread depth - 1.6mm is the legal minimum but for good grip on wet roads, it's better to replace tyres once the tread depth is 2.0mm.
5. If you expect to do a lot of driving on snow-covered roads, consider buying a spare set of wheels with tyres especially designed for these conditions. Some tyre retailers will store the summer tyres for you in winter, and vice versa.
6. Check the level in the coolant reservoir and top up as necessary with a water/antifreeze solution. The coolant (with antifreeze) should be changed every two or three years.
7. Make sure the antifreeze concentration in the cooling system is adequate - if there has been a leak and you've been topping up with plain water it may not be. A garage can test it for you, or you can buy a tester from a car accessory shop.
8. Winter grade diesel can cope with temperatures down to -15º C. If lower temperatures are expected, use an anti-waxing additive in the fuel tank (or stay at home!)
9. Ensure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. You may get a free battery and charging system check at a car accessory shop or fast-fit specialist. Don't wait for your battery to fail - replace it in good time.
10. Carry an emergency kit - spare fuses and bulbs, jump leads, a torch, water dispersant spray and de-icer.
11. If your car has air conditioning, run it for 10 minutes or so once a month to stop the seals drying out. And use it to demist the windscreen even if you don't need the cooling effect.
12. When parking overnight in freezing conditions, leave your car in gear with the handbrake off if it is safe to do so. This will prevent the handbrake freezing in the 'on' position.
13. In the morning you can use warm (not boiling!) water for defrosting windows, but watch where it runs - it could form an ice slick when it freezes.
14. There's no point in keeping lock de-icer inside the car. Frozen door locks can sometimes be freed by blowing into them - but be careful not to get your lips stuck to the car!
15. Make things easier for the battery by not switching on headlights, heater blower or heated rear window until the engine is running. Similarly, switch off lights etc before stopping the engine. Switch off the heated rear window as soon as the screen is clear.
16. On slippery roads, drive slowly, smoothly and gently. Accelerate gradually, steer gently and brake smoothly. Arrange tuition on a skid-pan through your local driving school or the Institute of Advanced Motorists.

 

Haynes